AN INVESTIGATION OF THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DRESS AND APPEARANCE AND RETENTION OF ETHNIC IDENTITY
Abstract
This research investigated maintenance of extrinsic cultural traits of dress and appearance and assimilation into dominant American culture. Establishment of dress and appearance as an expression of cultural group identity allows these variables to be used as measurements of assimilation. The research design was exploratory since research pertaining to dress and appearance and assimilation was minimal. Survey techniques employed a questionnaire. A cross-cultural sample was 257 female students in university classes, San Francisco State University, San Francisco, California, spring semester, 1980. Data gathered includes: dress and appearance; assimilation indices; desire to be assimilated; retention of ethnic identity; and conformity to peer group dress. Data was analyzed by chi-square tests and Spearman rank-order correlations. The conceptual framework was based upon concepts associated with Gordon's assimilation paradigm: (1) extrinsic traits are quickly lost upon contact with dominant society; (2) extrinsic cultural traits may be retained indefinitely if individuals do not progress beyond first stage of assimilation; (3) once individuals have progressed through structural assimilation evidence of extrinsic cultural traits is completely removed. Research Hypothesis I, the relationship between dress and appearance and assimilation was supported. Differences exhibited in assimilation indices of name, residential segregation, citizenship, language, family gatherings, and religion were related to differences in dress and appearance characteristics. Persons with low levels of assimilation wore more ethnic clothing items and fewer items of dominant culture dress when compared to individuals with high levels of assimilation. Research Hypothesis II, the relationship between dress and appearance and desire to be assimilated was supported. Individuals desiring assimilation exhibited dress characteristics similar to dominant society. Persons not desiring assimilation retained ethnic dress traits. Research Hypothesis III, the relationship between dress and appearance and ethnic identity was supported. Continued identification with ethnic heritage related to maintenance of ethnic dress traits. Ethnic dress was worn on more occasions when there was interaction with ethnic group members. Research Hypothesis IV, the relationship between dress and appearance and generation was supported. First and second generation individuals retained ethnic dress traits. As generation changed from first through fourth, items of ethnic culture dress worn decreased and items of dominant culture dress worn increased. Research Hypothesis V, the relationship between dress and appearance and conformity to peer group dress was supported. Retention of ethnically defined dress traits was high when group cohesion between friends, family, and neighbors was strong. Dominant culture dress was worn more by individuals not attached to strong cohesive groups. Conclusions were: (1) Extrinsic traits of dress and appearance were not lost quickly upon contact with dominant society. (2) Extrinsic cultural traits of dress and appearance were retained indefinitely by persons remaining unassimilated. (3) Maintenance of other intrinsic and extrinsic cultural traits was related to retention of ethnically specific dress and appearance traits. (4) Extrinsic cultural traits of dress and appearance were retained by individuals who had progressed through structural assimilation. (5) Strong group cohesion related to retaining ethnically defined dress traits. Finally, (6) dress and appearance were found to be viable indices for measuring assimilation indicating the extent individuals maintain identity with ethnic heritages. Further study includes: male subjects; hierarchy of clothing items released during assimilation; new dress patterns emerging; and psychological implications of ethnic dress.
Degree
Ph.D.
Subject Area
Home economics
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